Most of the posts up on our blog are Cindy’s, just like most
of the updates are Matt’s. However, just like Cindy sometimes writes part of
the updates, sometimes Matt wants to blog some interesting info about life, so
here you go.
Where we live is, in a word, remote. It’s not like stuff
isn’t available there (see the post on Cindy’s favorite foods available here)
or that it’s particularly uncomfortable (see our house, not bad) but it’s just
a really long way from anywhere else. Distance wise, it’s not too bad, about
600 kilometers (370 miles) from the capital city. It is just a really long
drive in time. The roads are not good, the vehicles you use are usually old and
heavily used, and it’s just not a comfortable drive. If the weather is good and
everything is perfect, it can take as little as 15 or 16 hours to make the
drive. If everything doesn’t go perfectly, it’s longer.
Now of course, there are plenty of things that can go wrong.
The road is through mountains, so avalanches, landslides, falling rocks, or
just heavy snows can block the road. Wrecks are not uncommon, and one side of
the road is a cliff up, the other is a cliff down to a river, so there isn’t a
lot of room for forgiveness in wrecks. There is road construction and repair
here, but there isn’t any room to make a detour, so they just block the road
until they are done. There are two river crossings (no bridges), so if the
water is too high at either one of those, you have to stop until it goes down.
The vehicles aren’t always the best, we ride in shared SUVs that are pretty
much taxis that run up and down to the capital. They are usually old, a bit
beat up, and can break down pretty easily, which will slow down a trip. Cindy
and I were very fortunate to come up with nearly no incidents in travel, making
a good 16 hour trip in the rain over two days. Coming back down in December, it
was a bit different.
We left the day after Christmas, knowing we had a flight to
catch on the 29th to Turkey. About 9 in the morning we got a call
that the car arranged the week before had backed out, so our supervisor and his
wife were looking for a new truck to take us down. They soon found one, we
packed up our luggage and headed into town. We had a slight dusting of snow the
night before, but not much and we had yet to get a heavy snow over the winter,
so we had high hopes for a quick trip. We left around 10, and it started
snowing just as we pulled out of town. It proceeded to keep snowing for the entire
day as we drove on the cliff side road for seven or eight hours of daylight. We
stopped for dinner and decided to keep going; with the snow it might close the
road if we didn’t.
Driving at night may be harder on the driver, he’s tired and
can’t see well, but it’s easier on the passengers because, well, they are tired
and can’t see well. This is a blessing while driving on a cliff, believe me. An
Iranian road crew working construction delayed us a bit, but the crane moved
out of the road enough for us to pass on by, so we kept on. It was just a slog
on, a bit cramped, but doable.
Then midnight came along. By then we had left the river and
were crossing over mountain passes on the way north. It was usually snowing at
the top of these passes, but raining as you went lower. We were heading down
one of the down slopes when the fog really started to get thick. Before long,
our driver could no longer see the road. It’s not that he couldn’t see far down
the road, or that he couldn’t see the edge of the road, he literally couldn’t
see the road out of the window at all. My supervisor and I jumped out of the
car with our handy headlamps (yay Black Diamond) and started to run down the
middle of the road so he could follow us. I put a headlamp on backwards so he could
see me, then held one pointed at the sides of the road so I could see where I
was. I could rarely see both sides of the road, but could keep one in sight and
judged the middle pretty well. The driver sometimes decided to keep to one
side, something I had to motion him to stop because in places there was a hole
in the road. Did I mention it was raining? Yep, freezing rain, and my rain
jacket is in my house. Why would I possibly need a rain jacket? I did have a
synthetic insulated jacket on (props to Mountain Hardwear here) and so kept a
bit warm and dry, but before long my jeans were soaked and my hands went pretty
numb before I managed to pull out some gloves. All that said, running downhill
will keep you pretty warm. I have friends that do this sort of thing (also
known as “jogging”) for fun. Rob Pengelly, you are a friend and a gentlemen,
but patently insane, sorry.
After an hour of this, a couple of miles down (and by a
couple, I mean it felt like 10 but was probably only 2) the fog lifted and we
pulled into a little restaurant to get some food and rest. I had a bit of tea,
stood next to a stove to dry off a bit, and caught my breath. Both of us were
soaked from the waist down, but not too bad. Then we got back in the car.
Now the battery had been giving the driver some problems, so
to be safe he left the radio off for the rest of the trip. We were fine with
this, 14 hours of Tajik and Russian music is plenty for most people. He also
decided to leave the heater off for the remainder of the trip. I soon noticed
that in wet jeans and freezing weather the inside of a car can get a bit
chilly. Luckily my jacket had kept most of me warm, and my lovely wife lent me
a down jacket to cover my legs up a bit for warmth, but it wasn’t a fun
remainder of the journey. We finally pulled in to a snowy capital city around 9
in the morning, found a taxi, got to the guest house, changed clothes real
quick, and fell into bed until around 2 in the afternoon. 23 hours down on what
was really a pretty average trip. I wonder why our supervisor and his wife
decided to fly up this time? Hm, go figure.
| Bottom of the hill, trying to warm up a bit by a little stove before the drive out. |